When you’re dealing with small, high-value antique items, the most important rule is simple: less is more. That means less water, less pressure, less product—and definitely less guesswork. Whether it’s a delicate porcelain figurine passed down from your nan, a silver candelabra collecting dust in the hallway, or a mid-century lamp that cost a small fortune at an Islington auction, you don’t want to ruin something that could be worth thousands. The cleaning process isn’t about scrubbing until it shines; it’s about preserving beauty, value, and history with every wipe. You need to know the right techniques for each type of surface, understand the risks, and always have a solid plan in case things go wrong. This article walks you through the most common types of small antique pieces found in London homes, the materials they’re made of, the different cleaning approaches needed for each, and why a strong insurance policy is a cleaner’s best friend. Trust me—I’ve been doing this professionally for years in homes across Hampstead, Chelsea, and Highgate. If it’s small, valuable, and breakable, I’ve cleaned it. And lived to tell the tale.
The Small but Pricey Treasures in a London Home
Common Types of Collectible Antiques
In most London homes I clean, there’s at least one shelf or cabinet with treasures no one dares touch. And for good reason. These are the bits and bobs that carry sentimental and financial weight.
- Lamps – Especially Victorian or Art Deco styles. Often made with stained glass, brass, or porcelain bases.
- Small chests and boxes – Jewellery boxes, writing slopes, and sewing boxes made from rosewood, mahogany, or even tortoiseshell.
- China sets – Royal Doulton, Wedgwood, or Limoges tea sets tucked away in display cabinets.
- Silverware – From Georgian spoons to full Edwardian cutlery sets. Often used only at Christmas, if at all.
- Other – Clocks, figurines, candlesticks, inkwells, photo frames, old mirrors, and even antique toys.
You’ll usually find them in lounges, hallways, or on bedside tables—anywhere they can be admired without being disturbed. But dust doesn’t care how valuable something is. Sooner or later, it’ll need cleaning.
Why Cleaning Antique Materials Isn’t Straightforward
Each antique object is a blend of age, material, and fragility. You can’t clean a wooden box the same way you’d clean a silver spoon, even if they’re from the same century.
Wood
Antique wood tends to be dry, cracked, or waxed. Over-cleaning can strip the natural oils or damage the patina. Use a soft microfibre cloth and a barely damp (almost dry) touch. Avoid modern polish sprays. A tiny dab of beeswax polish, gently rubbed and buffed, works wonders without overloading the surface.
Metal
Brass, bronze, and pewter are common, especially in handles or lamp fittings. Never assume metal means “scrub away.” A mild vinegar solution (diluted well) on a soft cloth is enough to cut the grime. Avoid steel wool or anything remotely abrasive. A cotton bud is perfect for corners and small grooves.
Silver
Silver looks tough but is surprisingly soft. It tarnishes when exposed to air, so don’t be alarmed if it’s blackened. Use a quality silver polish sparingly, with a lint-free cloth. Rub gently and only in straight lines—not circles. Avoid getting polish into intricate detailing where it’s hard to remove.
Porcelain and China
Porcelain is brittle, especially older pieces with hairline cracks or gold trim. Never soak these. Use a slightly damp cloth with a touch of gentle dish soap. For detailed spots (like inside handles), use a soft toothbrush. Always dry immediately with a lint-free towel.
Upholstery
Some antique stools, small chairs, or boxes come with fabric or velvet details. Test any product on an inconspicuous spot first. Use a low-suction vacuum with a brush attachment to remove dust. For deeper cleaning, a dry foam upholstery cleaner works best—dabbed, never rubbed. Water-based cleaners can leave rings on old fabrics.
When the Piece Is Worth Thousands: Clean with Caution
Even the steadiest hands can slip. Even the most careful plans can go wrong. That’s the harsh truth about cleaning antiques. One scratch, one drop, or one wrong product can wipe out hundreds of pounds in value—or worse.
Hidden Vulnerabilities
Lots of antiques look sturdier than they are. That old wooden box may have hidden joints held together by 100-year-old glue. That beautiful porcelain jug could have a repaired spout, invisible until it’s under pressure. Always check for signs of damage or repair before you begin.
Fingerprints Can Be Trouble
Don’t laugh—it’s true. Some metals and finishes react to the oils in your skin. That means every fingerprint can leave a mark. Use cotton gloves or a cloth to handle delicate items. Your hands might be clean, but your fingerprints won’t be welcome.
Do One Thing at a Time
Never try to clean a collection in one go. Focus on one item, one material, one surface at a time. That way, if a mistake happens, you won’t lose more than one piece.
Insurance: Your Safety Net When Cleaning Antiques
Why You Need It
Let’s be blunt. If you’re cleaning something that’s worth more than your car, you need to be insured. It doesn’t matter how experienced or careful you are. Accidents happen. Having a bullet-proof insurance policy means you’re covered if something breaks, fades, scratches, or disintegrates under your cloth.
What to Look For
- Public liability cover – This protects you if you damage someone else’s property during cleaning.
- Product-specific coverage – Some policies exclude antiques or fine art unless you add them. Always read the fine print.
- Itemised inventory – For homeowners: get your antiques appraised and listed. It makes claims easier, and it’s a good excuse to know what you’ve actually got.
- Proof of handling procedures – If you’re a professional cleaner like me, keep records. Photos before and after, product lists, consent forms if needed.
It’s Not Just for Cleaners
Even if you’re cleaning your own things, it’s worth having your antique items properly insured. You never know what might happen. A slip, a splash, or even a curious toddler can do the sort of damage that takes a specialist to fix—or can’t be fixed at all.
Cleaning Kits I Trust for Antique Work
If you’re looking to build a basic cleaning kit for antiques, here’s what I recommend:
- Microfibre cloths (lint-free and colourless)
- Cotton gloves
- Soft-bristle toothbrushes
- Cotton buds
- Small glass spray bottles (for diluted solutions)
- Beeswax polish (natural)
- Silver polish cream (not foam or spray)
- Dry foam fabric cleaner
- Distilled water (for mixing and rinsing)
- Mild dish soap (unscented, no dye)
Keep all products clearly labelled. Store away from heat and sunlight. And never mix them. It sounds like overkill, but when you’re cleaning an antique in a £3 million townhouse, there’s no such thing as too careful.
Parting Tips from a London Cleaner
I’ve cleaned in homes with butlers, panic rooms, even one with a full suit of armour in the hallway. But it’s always the smallest pieces that make me pause. A cracked plate from 1830, a tiny French clock with hand-painted numbers, a silver frame with a faded family photo inside. These aren’t just things. They’re stories.
So go slowly. Use the right tools. Check before you touch. And always—always—have your insurance in place before you do anything else.
You’re not just cleaning antiques. You’re preserving history. And that, my friend, is a job worth doing well!
